Brompton has launched the new T Line Electric, its lightest electric bike yet, with a claimed 14.1kg weight including the removable battery pack and an 11.2kg weight for the bike alone. UK prices start at £5,799, while the updated Brompton Electric bike range is priced from £2,999.

The T Line Electric is powered by the Brompton e-Motiq rear-hub motor introduced on the Electric G Line when it was launched in 2024. The C Line Electric and P Line Electric bikes have also been updated to use the e-Motiq motor in place of their previous front-hub motor system.

“The new Brompton Electric range is our answer to the evolving way we live and move. We’ve kept everything people love about Brompton – the portability, the engineering, the joy of the ride – and added the intelligence and lightness to make it easier, smarter, and even more fun,” says Will Carleysmith, Brompton’s chief design and engineering officer.

At 14.1kg, the T Line Electric removes more than a kilogram in weight from Brompton’s ebike range, making it one of the lightest electric folding bikes.

Brompton launched its first ebike in 2017, based on the C Line’s all-steel frame. The C Line Electric has a claimed weight starting at 16.6kg for the four-speed model. It was joined in 2022 by the P Line Electric. This has a steel main frame, but with a titanium rear frame, and the four-speed bike has a claimed 15.6kg weight.

The T Line Electric is based on the pedal-only T Line, which has claimed weights starting from 7.45kg for the singlespeed bike and is made of titanium with a carbon fork and crankset, and a carbon seatpost with steel sheathing. Even the pedals are lighter than Brompton’s standard folding pedals.

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New motor placement

The T Line Electric, like the C Line and P Line Electric 16-inch wheel bikes, is powered by the same e-Motiq motor as used in the G Line Electric 20-inch wheel folding bike.

The e-Motiq motor is toned down a little for the T, C and P Line bikes, with 250W output and 24Nm torque in place of the Electric G Line’s 30Nm torque. Brompton says that the output is calibrated to provide the same degree of rider support across the different electric bike lines. 

All Brompton ebikes include a torque sensor to ensure the motor output matches that of the rider. They all share the same 345Wh removable battery, which sits in a clip-on backpack that’s attached to the handlebar.

Brompton claims a range of up to 90km for the e-Motiq motor in the T Line Electric. It says the motor system will learn and adapt to your riding style, developing an understanding of how you ride over the first 100km, then making changes every 6km to fine-tune its personalisation. It uses this data to make accurate predictions of the available range via the Brompton Electric app, which also supports over-the-air firmware updates.

The motor offers a Start Assist mode for speedy acceleration from stops and to give an extra boost for steeper hills. There’s also a Walk Assist mode to help you move the bike around more easily when you’re on foot, which will run the motor at speeds of up to 6km/h.

Electric system safety certified

There’s been a lot of negative publicity about the safety of electric bike batteries over the last few years. That’s down largely to low-quality batteries sold via online outlets, with fires often the result of users pairing them with mismatched chargers.

Brompton is at pains to stress the safety of its batteries, though, which are assembled in London and have been independently certified to meet international standards for electrical and fire safety. Its electric bikes carry a three-year electric system warranty. 

Brompton says it is also one of the first ebike brands to be audited and listed on the Bicycle Association Register of Safety-Audited E-Bike Brands.

The Brompton T Line Electric is available for pre-orders via Brompton’s site and its Brompton Junction store from 21 October and will be on general sale from Brompton and its 1,500 Brompton Accredited retailers from 28 October. It’s priced at £5,799 / €6,799 / $TBA.

Electric cargo bikes could change people’s perception of cycling and replace cars for many tasks, including school runs, shopping, family outings and commuting, a new study suggests.

The study, published in the journal Geoforum and supported by the UK’s Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council, was led by Clara Glachant of the University of Eindhoven.

Commenting on the study’s findings, Glachant said: “Our findings suggest that e-cargo cycling may help cultivate a cycling culture both at the household level and the community level. 

“They may reshape ideas of who belongs on the road, who is entitled to space. This could help to reduce anti-cyclist sentiment which would help active travel contribute more to sustainable transport.” 

The study also found that e-cargo bikes lead to a change in users’ view of cycling, seeing it as a practical activity, not just a pastime for leisure or fitness.

• Best electric cargo bikes in 2025 | Plus our buyer’s guide to e-cargo bikes
  

Increased use by female riders

49 UK families living in Brighton, Leeds and Oxford were loaned an electric cargo bike for one month each during the summer of 2023, with 11 families additionally loaned an e-cargo bike for winter riding from October 2023 to March 2024. The bikes were a mix of longtail and front-loading designs, and 51% of the households taking part already owned one car, with 47% owning two or more.

While Oxford has a high rate of cycle use, the figure in Leeds is low, with a previous survey finding it to be one of the UK cities least friendly to cyclists; Brighton sits between the two. The families were recruited via local publicity and follow-on surveys, so were found to have had a predisposition to trial cycling rather than driving and be more keen to reduce car use than the national average. 

67% of participants were between the ages of 35 and 49, and 67% already cycled weekly. 

Findings on use of the bikes suggested 59% of their main users were female, in comparison to cycle use in general, with only 20% of British Cycling members being women.

Different perceptions

Among the study‘s findings was that there were benefits for the perception of cycling in the community, helping to normalise it, and also changing study participants’ views of cycling. 

“It’s also about culture: people’s habits, identities and perceptions of transport. Our research shows e-cargo bikes can help reshape these, challenging what psychologist Ian Walker has coined ‘motonormativity’,” Glachant says.

Several study participants commented on the different perception of car drivers of riders of cargo bikes compared to recreational riders, feeling they were given more road space and that drivers were more patient.

On the other hand, some participants reported feeling out of place and unconventional, as well as having concerns over child safety.

The researchers suggested that e-cargo bikes could also shift the balance of cycle commuting and utility cycling in the UK away from its current male domination, encouraging more women and children to travel by bike.

A shift away from car use?

While previous studies had concentrated on the use of e-cargo bikes to replace motor vehicles for last-mile deliveries, the study was one of the first to look at their potential to replace motor vehicles for family mobility.

Many of the families’ trips included carrying passengers and, unlike riding a single-person bike, they reported that an e-cargo bike enabled riders and their passengers to interact with each other, more like riding in a car, although how effectively depended on the design of the bike.

The participants found it also enabled them to connect more with their surroundings and local communities than sitting in a car, which previous studies have characterised as ‘private-in-public’ spaces, limiting social interactions in comparison to cycling. They felt they were given more road space by drivers than on solo leisure rides, too.

The study points to surveys that show that in the UK in 2021, 75% of mileage was by car or van and only 1.7% by bicycle. 

The 2024 National Transport Survey found that 17% of journeys under one mile were made in a car or van, with 81% on foot. That tipped to 69% by car or van for trips of one to five miles and 83% for five to 10-mile journeys, excursions for which e-cargo bikes could often substitute.

But the study points out that, while 90,000 cargo bikes were sold in Germany and 70,000 in France in 2022, only 4,000 were sold in the UK. 

I have fitted quite literally hundreds of mudguards during my time as a cyclist. That might sound like exaggeration, but I swear it’s true.

Some of that’s down to my own bikes – most of which have mudguards – but it’s largely thanks to my time spent preaching the good word of the mudguard evangelists while working as a mechanic in a perpetually damp Edinburgh bike shop. 

Our poor customers left the shop having spoken to me, feeling mudguards weren’t optional – they were practically compulsory. 

And with good reason – we all know mudguards keep you drier, protect your drivetrain and generally make riding in bad weather tolerable. I’m sure they thanked me when splish-splashing along a cobbled vennel. 

But my commitment to the way of the fender is lifelong. My dad’s dad taught him that no meal is complete without chips – along with that nugget of culinary wisdom, my father passed on to me the equally valuable belief that no bike is complete without mudguards. 

Over the years, I’ve learned what makes the difference between a noisy, half-baked setup and mudguards that disappear into the background – quietly doing their job, rattle-free, for years. 

Here are my hard-earned tips for fitting mudguards properly, so you too can enjoy dry-bum bliss.

• Read more: Best mudguards and fenders | Our recommendations plus a complete buyer’s guide

1. Be patient

Even the best-designed mudguards are fiddly to fit – don’t rush it. A slapdash job means wobbly stays, uneven tyre lines and countless rattles. 

For alloy mudguards, especially, set aside a couple of hours the first time around. Once you’ve got the hang of it, or you’re refitting after summer, it’s much quicker – but patience is your friend here. 

I advise changing your mindset before committing to the temple of dry bum. Treat the job as a pre-winter afternoon project, and indulge in the pleasure of a job well done. 

2. Do your research

Patience must also be employed before you fit anything – mudguards aren’t one-size-fits-all. 

To start, profiles vary. A round guard might hug a road tyre beautifully, but look awkward or rub on a gravel bike. Conversely, fenders with a flat profile often suit chunkier tyres better.

The shape also really matters. Round guards tend to channel water down and away, but in muddy conditions, they can clog more easily.

Equally, some mudguards will simply suit some bikes better than others. 

We sold dozens of entry-level Trek Domane road bikes in the aforementioned bike shop. This was in the rim-brake era, and we found the slightly narrower, rounder profile of SKS guards suited the bike far better than Trek’s own-brand fenders.

On the other hand, a bike with flat seatstay and chainstay bridges might suit flat-profile mudguards and enable you to eke out a few extra millimetres of clearance. 

Good mudguard manufacturers will provide detailed measurements that you can cross-reference with your bike. Consult these closely and don’t rush the buying decision. You might also find your local bike shop has advice for your specific bike.

3. Pick the right material

Mudguards broadly come in two flavours: alloy and plastic. 

Each has pros and cons, and choosing the right one depends on how you’ll use your bike.

Alloy guards look fantastic, last for years and can be more easily repaired if damaged. They also tend to be available with higher-quality hardware and spares, which means you can keep them running almost indefinitely. 

They aren’t always the best solution, however. If you park your bike in a crowded rack, an alloy guard will not appreciate being bent or squashed. Plastic guards, by contrast, will more easily shrug off knocks, flex rather than bend, and are generally easier to swap between bikes.

If you want longevity and don’t mind them being a little fussier, go alloy. If you’re rougher on your bike, or want something more forgiving, plastic might be the smarter choice.

4. Go as wide as possible

Your frameset will dictate the maximum size of mudguard you can fit, but my rule of thumb is simple: go as wide as you can.

Even if your tyres are narrower than the guard, a wider mudguard gives you more clearance for mud, a margin for error in setup and the freedom to fit bigger tyres later. 

Done neatly, it rarely looks odd, and the pay-off in coverage and practicality is worth it.

There’s really no good case for going narrow, unless you’re utterly obsessed with the perfect fender line, but even that’s possible provided the difference between tyre and mudguard width isn’t cavernous.

5. Prep your threads

Mudguard eyelets live a hard life. They’re continually blasted by spray, salt and grit. If you don’t look after them, they’ll seize solid and turn removal into a nightmare.

Before fitting, chase the threads with a tap if you can. This ensures the bolts go in cleanly. Then, when you fit them, absolutely smother the threads in grease or antiseize. 

Wipe away the excess once it’s tightened, and you’ll have peace of mind knowing the bolts won’t seize and the guards will still be removable come summer.

Prep is even more important when fitting guards to a bike with hidden eyelets. 

Referring back to the Domane, Trek’s neat banjo-bolt style mudguard mounts made for clean lines in the summer, but the grub screws used to cap these eyelets seized with alarming ease. 

In summary, ‘clean those threads and grease liberally’ is a good rule to live your life by. 

High-quality fasteners are also essential. As with bottle-cage bolts, I recommend stainless steel cap head bolts with a good, deep 4mm socket for most applications.

I refer back to my previous point on being patient and encourage you not to skip this boring, five-minute step – it will save hours of swearing in the long run.

6. Kill the rattles

Mudguard rattles put off many from enjoying a life less soggy. Once they start, they’re all you’ll hear, and they make people conclude wrongly that mudguards are inherently awful.

The truth is, rattles almost always come down to setup. Stays too long? Bolts not tight enough? Clearances slightly off? Those are your usual culprits. Take the time to adjust and readjust until everything lines up neatly – again, patience. 

If you’ve done all that and there’s still a buzz, damping contact points can work wonders. 

I like to stick on a bit of thick, rubbery, transparent greenhouse repair tape where the mudguard touches the chainstays or fork crown. It’s a simple hack that silences most niggles and helps protect paint.

Small off-cuts of bar tape can also be used where there’s a larger gap to bridge. This is most useful to fill the gap between the mudguard and the underside of the fork bridge.

But don’t ignore persistent wobbles or clattering – that almost always means the fit isn’t right. Keep tweaking until they’re silent. A properly fitted set should be fit and forget.

7. Buy guards with spares available

Cheap guards are a false economy because once a stay bolt, flap or clip breaks, you’re usually out of luck. No spares, no fixing and straight to landfill they go – very depressing stuff.

Better brands, though, sell spares for everything – from bolts to stays to mudflaps. This means you can keep a single set of guards alive for years. 

At the time of writing, I have a set of alloy guards that have survived eight years and three bikes of riding, simply because I could replace a stay or a bolt when needed.

If you want your guards to last longer than a season, choose a brand that makes spares readily available.

8. Don’t be afraid to modify

Sometimes, a mudguard will fit almost perfectly, but not quite – that’s where a little modification comes in. 

Small tweaks – a wee cut here, a reprofile there – can make the difference between endless frustration and a neat, silent fit.

Common mods include trimming a slot to clear a front derailleur, gently reshaping a guard to clear tight chainstays and adding a supplementary stay to stiffen up a long front guard.

Manufacturers might officially discourage this, but if you do a neat job with the right tools, there’s rarely any downside. A rotary tool such as a Dremel, in particular, is worth its weight in gold for this sort of fettling if you need to make a neat cut.

9. Mud flaps are not a crime

Yes, they look dorky, but mud flaps are the quiet mark of a deeply committed winter rider likely to gather admiring nods from those in the know. 

They extend the coverage of your mudguards, stop spray from soaking your shoes and prevent your riding chums from cursing your existence when they sit on your wheel in January. Some more traditional cycling clubs even insist on them, and with good reason.

You can buy aftermarket ones, or go classic and cut up a washing-up bottle. Either way, wear them with pride. They’re not dorky – they’re practical, effective and charming in an old-school way.